February 17, 2016

Alex's Official Unofficial Guide to Climbing the Volcanoes of Nicaragua

I've climbed 13 of Nicaragua's 19 volcanoes, and it was very difficult to find info on how to climb some of them, so I decided to make this guide for anyone else who wants to. First, a note on guides. There are some volcanoes that I would recommend you climb with a guide. There are some groups that you can go with, like QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI, that will provide well-trained guides, but these always cost more than Nica guides. The problem with Nica guides is that they usually have little-to-no training on how to be a guide. There is no guarantee that they'll be able to help with medical issues, speak English, or know that they can't get very far ahead of you. This doesn't mean that you shouldn't hire them, but you should be aware of this up front. Also that last point is very important; any time you hire a guide you need to make it clear that he shouldn't get more that 20(ish) meters ahead of you. The best time to climb volcanoes is in summer, but it's certainly not necessary. This list of volcanoes is the list according to a 3D topographical map at the visitor's center at Volcán Masaya, and the order is south-to-north.

1. Volcán Maderas
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to San Jorge, or to Rivas followed by a taxi to San Jorge. Go all the way to the port. Then take a ferry to Ometepe and a very slow bus or a very expensive taxi to either Santa Cruz or Balgüe. Ask the people at your hostel how to find the trail up the volcano. You don't need a guide, but if you want one your hostel can probably arrange one for you.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


2. Volcán Concepción
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to San Jorge, or to Rivas followed by a taxi to San Jorge. Go all the way to the port. Then take a ferry to Ometepe and a very slow bus to Altagracia. Call a guide named Wilmore at 8739-0825 a few days beforehand. He'll be able to help you out.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you? Actually I've heard that the view is beautiful if it isn't cloudy. Whether or not it's cloudy is sheer random chance.


3. Volcán Zapatera
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to Granada and a taxi to the port. Ask when boats go to Zapatera. There are two eco-lodges on the island so there definitely are boats that go there, and they may also be able to help you with climbing the volcano there.

Why you should climb it:
Because you have tons of money and don't know how to spend it all.


4. Volcán Mombacho
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to Nandaime or Rivas, or to Granada and then to Nandaime or Rivas. Either way ask the cobrador let you off at Mombacho. You'll have to pay US$4 to enter. The road goes all the way to the top and is the only way up.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


5. Laguna de Apoyo
How to climb it:
Ok, you don't really “climb” Laguna de Apoyo, per se, but going to the rim kinda-sorta counts. Take a bus from Huembes to Nandaime or Rivas and get off at Catarina, or from Masaya to Catarina. Ask people how to get to the mirador. Go where they tell you to go. You'll have to pay C$50 to enter.

Why you should climb it:
Seriously? You don't know why you should go to the Laguna de Apoyo mirador?


6. Volcán Masaya
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to Masaya and ask the cobrador to let you off at Volcán Masaya. You'll have to pay C$30 to enter. The road goes all the way to the top and is the only way up. There is very little tree cover. Use plenty of sunscreen.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


7. Volcán Apoyeque
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Nagarote or La Paz Centro, or from UCA to León, and ask the cobrador to let you off at Ciudad Sandino. From there take a bus to Xiloá, and ask the cobrador to let you off at the escuela. Go to the entrance of the military school and ask if you can pass through it to climb the volcano. If they let you in, pass through, if not, hop the fence and sneak across the school on your way to the top.

Why you should climb it:
Because you've always wanted to see what the inside of a Nicaraguan prison looks like.


8. Volcán Momotombito
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Nagarote, asking the cobrador to let you off at Meatre, from Israel to La Paz Centro, or from UCA to León asking the cobrador to let you off at either place. If you go to La Paz Centro you'll also have to take a cab to Puerto Momotombo. From Meatre or Puerto Momotombo ask a fisherman to take you to Momotombito, and make sure you give him a time to return to the same spot to pick you up and make sure you get his phone number and that he has yours. Once you're on the island, bushwhack your way to the top.

Why you should climb it:
It might have a good view of Momotombo. I'm not sure.


9. Volcán Momotombo
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to La Paz Centro, or from UCA to León asking the cobrador to let you off at La Paz Centro. Then take a taxi to the geothermal plant, and make sure you get the phone number of the taxi driver to call him later. Ask to pass through the geothermal plant, and from there you're on your own, as I have not climbed Momotombo.

Why you should climb it:
I have heard that the view from the top is spectacular.


10. Volcán El Hoyo
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then go with QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


11. Volcán Las Pilas
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then go up El Hoyo with QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI and ask if you can go up Las Pilas as well. The only practical way to get to the base is with an organized group, and I wouldn't want to explore the trails on the El Hoyo-Las Pilas volcanic complex without a guide.

Why you should climb it:
Because the view is probably pretty good.


12. Volcán Cerro Negro
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then go with QuetzalTrekkers; they're cheaper than everyone else because you get a $5 discount for being a volunteer in Nicaragua and you get to go down twice if you want to.

Why you should climb it:
...seriously?


13. Volcán Rota
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then take a bus to San Isidro and ask the cobrador to let you off at San Jacinto. Then bushwhack your way to the top.

Why you should climb it:
You shouldn't.


14. Volcán Santa Clara
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then take a bus to San Isidro and ask the cobrador to let you off at San Jacinto. Then bushwhack your way up to the top. When you get there, contemplate your own existence and what could possibly have led you to climb this horrible volcano. Seriously, do not climb it. I cannot be held responsible for your loss of sanity if you climb this volcano. It is terrible in every possible way.

Why you should climb it:
Because you enjoy pain and misery.


15. Volcán Telica
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then either take a cab to Volcán Telica, asking the cab driver for his phone number so he can pick you up later, or take a bus to San Isidro and ask the cobrador to let you off at Volcán Telica. Either way, you should get off/out at a bridge called La Quimera. Please note that there is also a town near León that's called Telica, and that you shouldn't go there first because it's basically impossible to find a cab from there to Volcán Telica. Once you get out of the cab/off the bus, start hiking up the streambed, which eventually turns into a trail. Every time the trail splits it will look like you should go left. Don't. Always go right. Always. Trust me. I know it doesn't make any sense, but trust me, always go right. Actually, if you see anyone else along the trail, ask them which way to go, and if it runs contrary to what I said, then ignore what I said and go where they told you to go. But if that doesn't happen, always go right. Eventually you'll arrive at the base of the volcano by a large tree that provides lots of shade, and from there the trail doesn't split any more. That being said, there is a high chance that you will still get lost, and I would not recommend going unless you're with someone else who's climbed it before. Take a ton of water. Fill up as much as you think you will need and then double it. No, I'm not joking. You can also go on a daytime trek, an overnight trek, or a sunset trek with QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI.

Why you should climb it:

If this is not enough of a reason for you, you can also sometimes see the lava inside the volcano at night.


16. Volcán Casita
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León, and another one from León to Chinandega, asking the cobrador to let you off at Volcán Casita. From there it's a long hike to the base, so make sure you ask everyone you meet how to get there to make sure you're going the right way. You will probably make some wrong turns anyway and will have to backtrack a few times. From the base there's a road up it to the radio towers on top.

Why you should climb it:
Honestly, you shouldn't. You should climb San Cristóbal instead. It's harder, but it's also way better.


17. Volcán San Cristóbal
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Chinandega, and then a taxi from Chinandega to La Bolsa, and make sure to get the driver's phone number so you can call him to pick you up later. From there hike along the road for ~2 hours to La Hacienda. If you have camping gear I'd recommend you camp here and start the main hike the next morning at 6 am, but if not you can also leave Chinandega to 4 am. Call a guide named Candido Tijerino at 8467-3809 or 8283-5591 a few days beforehand. Take a ton of water. Fill up as much as you think you will need and then double it. No, I'm not joking.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


18. Volcán El Chonco
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Chinandega, and another from Chinandega to Somotillo, asking the cobrador to let you off at Volcán El Chonco. Ask everyone you meet how to get there to make sure you're going the right way. You will probably make some wrong turns anyway and have to backtrack a few times. From the base the trail up follows a dry streambed and involves some semi-technical climbing.
Why you should climb it:
There's a fantastic view of San Cristóbal from the top, that I unfortunately do not have a picture of, but honestly the route up is just as difficult as the one up San Cristóbal, so you should just climb that one instead.


19. Volcán Cosigüina
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Chinandega, a cab to the mercadito, and a bus to Potosí. You can stay at Hotel Brisas del Gulfo or you can camp near the top. You can choose to go with a guide that Brisas del Gulfo can arrange, but you honestly don't need to. Just ask them how to get to the base and from there it's very easy. You should ask everyone you meet to make sure you're going the right way, but you probably won't make any wrong turns.

Why you should climb it:

This view is my absolute favorite in all of Nicaragua.


Which volcano(es) should I climb?:
I would definitely not recommend climbing Zapatera, Apoyeque, Momotombito, Las Pilas, Rota, Santa Clara, Casita, or El Chonco because they're expensive, pointless, or require bushwacking or breaking the law. Here are my categories for the ones that I would recommend:

The “I want something very easy” volcanoes:
Maderas
Mombacho
Laguna de Apoyo
Masaya
Cerro Negro
Cosigüina

The “I want something easy but not too easy” volcanoes:
El Hoyo
Telica

The “I am in fantastic shape” volcanoes:
Concepción
Momotombo
San Cristóbal

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