September 17, 2021

Why American Cities are Terrible

I touched on this in my posts about Zermatt and Paris, but I'd like to expand on it here: the problems are that we mandate low-density development, build everything around cars, and separate land uses. In most of our cities, over half of the residential land is zoned exclusively for single-family housing. For example, in Los Angeles, where there is also a massive housing shortage, on 75% of the residential land it is illegal to build anything other than single-family homes. This extremely low-density development forces people to drive if they want to get anywhere, because population density is not high enough to support a robust public transit network, walking is nearly impossible because everything to too far away, and biking is unsafe because fast roads are needed for drivers to get to their destination because it's so far away.

Since suburbanites have to drive everywhere, and zoning laws mandate that commercial areas be separate from residential areas, their destinations also have to provide a ton of parking, which uses even more space. American cities (and Canadian cities, because this is not just an American problem) implemented minimum parking requirements for suburban businesses so that the city wouldn't have to provide street parking, and they also bulldozed homes and businesses to put in highways and parking lots in existing developed areas. But they didn't create those parking requirements based on analyzing the data, they basically just made wild guesses. Have you ever noticed how the parking lots at places like Walmart and Costco never seem to actually be completely full? Yes, it can be hard to find parking sometimes, but there's always a section that has many spaces open, it just might be in a less convenient area of the lot. That's literally just because the minimum parking requirements are too high, so even on Black Friday, the lots usually aren't full. Check out #BlackFridayParking on Twitter to see what I mean. Activists have been using it to share photos of half-empty parking lots on Black Friday for years.

Because of these requirements, our suburban commercial areas use more space for cars than for people, and if you find the closest one to you on Google Maps and switch to satellite view, you'll see exactly what I mean. The parking lots take up more space than the actual businesses. A 2015 study analyzed the developed land in LA County, and found that 14% of it is used for parking. The average car is only used for a little over an hour each day, so it literally just sits there for 95% of its life. Is there anything else that we spend so much money and space on, but use so little?

This type of development also creates a justification for its own existence, because it creates a hostile environment for all other transportation options. For example, I live in one of America's few walkable areas, but I sometimes meet some friends at a Panera Bread in a suburban commercial area that's 1.8 miles away by road, and I always drive there because I literally have no other choice. The spatial requirements of car transportation lowers the density of people and businesses enough that public transit can't be efficient and takes 4 times as long as driving, the walk would be along a road that doesn't have sidewalks for a decent chunk of it because we spend nearly all of our infrastructure money on cars, and biking is unsafe because the cars are going too fast. So my only choice is to drive, which justifies large roads and parking lots, which makes everything very spread-out, which creates a transportation system where the only practical option is to drive. Suburban, car-centric development creates this reinforcing feedback loop that justifies its own existence.

These problems are solvable. There's no reason why nearly all of our cities have to be filled with highways, parking lots, and strip malls. We can pedestrianize streets that have a lot of pedestrian traffic, because banning driving on a popular street raises the number of people who can use it by creating a space where people feel safe to spend a lot of time, and by allowing restaurants to have outdoor dining. We can reduce infrastructure spending for cars, and replace it with infrastructure spending for public transit, biking, and walking. We can build dedicated biking networks that don't force bikers to stop every block, because the best ways to get people to bike places are to stop forcing them to bike next to multi-ton death machines, and to make it easier to bike without have to stop and start again every block. We can eliminate minimum parking requirements and allow businesses to build the amount of parking they think they need, not some arbitrary amount that's pulled out of thin air and creates spaces that are literally always empty, even on the busiest day of the year. We can eliminate arbitrary setback requirements that create space in front of buildings that some people (but definitely not all people) think looks nice, but ultimately serves no practical purpose and wastes an enormous amount of space. Remember that photo I posted of my old house in Oxford? It would be illegal to build it in most of the US because it's not far enough from the road. We can rezone single-family residential areas to allow other types of housing, like duplexes, triplexes, row homes, cottage courts, and even (gasp) small apartment buildings. We can rezone everything within 1-2 miles of a train station to allow dense, mixed-use development so that people who live there can get around on the train/subway network and won't have to own a car. We can make our cities significantly better by not catering exclusively to people who live in single-family housing with large lot sizes like we've been doing for decades.

Since I want to be 100% sure that this post will not be misinterpreted, I’d like to make it very clear what I’m not saying and what I am saying. I’m not saying that single-family housing shouldn’t exist, I’m saying we shouldn’t make everything else illegal. I’m not saying that setbacks shouldn’t exist, I’m saying we shouldn’t mandate them. I’m not saying that highways and parking lots shouldn’t exist, I’m saying we shouldn’t destroy people’s homes and businesses to build infrastructure for the least-efficient mode of transportation.

Some of those proposals are definitely controversial. For example, most people who live in the suburbs will read "rezone single-family residential areas to allow other types of housing" and think "but that will increase traffic." And in individual neighborhoods, it might (but I’ll explain why that’s not guaranteed in the next paragraph), and it's understandable to want less traffic in your neighborhood, especially if you have kids. But it will also decrease traffic overall, because low-density development is the primary reason why we have to drive so much in the first place, and more driving means more traffic. It's an example of the prisoner's dilemma: for each individual neighborhood, lower density housing with lots of cul-de-sacs reduces traffic, but when every neighborhood is like that everyone has to drive farther, which increases the total amount of traffic. There is only one way to solve the prisoner’s dilemma, and that’s for the prisoners (or neighborhoods in this analogy) to work together and pick the option that is best for everyone, not the option that is best for themselves.

Another reason that proposal is controversial is because of the perceived safety of kids. We assume that increasing housing density in suburban neighborhoods will bring more cars and make them less safe, right? It might seem counter-intuitive, but increasing density can actually makes kids more safe by making other transportation options more available. According to a 2018 study in the New England Journal of Medicine, car crashes are the number one killer of kids in the US, accounting for 20% of all deaths. Driving is by far the most dangerous method of transportation (aside from riding motorcycles, but unlike driving, we don't pretend that riding a motorcycle is safe), so switching to any other method will make kids (and adults) safer. One of the best ways to increase safety for kids is to make it easier to take the bus, walk, or ride a bike, but that’s virtually impossible in low-density suburban development for the reasons mentioned previously. Another way is to implement traffic calming measures so that drivers will slow down, which might sound easy, but is actually remarkably difficult in most places due to city mandates like minimum widths for roads.

Remember when Trump was saying that America has too many regulations, and needs to get rid of a bunch of them? He was just pushing a typical right-wing talking point, but even a stuck clock is right twice a day, and we do legitimately have too many regulations about development (although it was ironic that he also threw a hissy-fit when Minneapolis allowed duplexes and triplexes in their single-family zoning, because that's effectively removing one of those regulations). For centuries we built cities and towns around people, allowing them to develop property based on their needs, but then from roughly 1900 - 1950 we implemented a bunch of rules to mandate low-density, car-dependent development. You know how people say that American cities are built around cars, but European cities aren't, because European cities were built before cars? That's not actually true, because many American cities also existed long before cars. Our cities used to be human-centric, but then we literally bulldozed them so that people could leave them and then drive back in. Check out http://iqc.ou.edu/urbanchange to see what I mean. It’s a website put together by the University of Oklahoma that compares aerial photos of what our cities used to look like to what they currently look like, and it makes it very clear how we bulldozed homes and businesses (primarily black and hispanic ones) to put in highways and parking lots. Even our most car-dependent cities like Houston, Atlanta, and San Diego used to be people-centric, but then we destroyed people’s homes and businesses for highways. American cities weren't just built around cars, they were bulldozed for cars.

The same exact thing could have happened to European cities, but most of them managed to stop it. In the 1970's, for example, the Dutch government hired a bunch of American planners to design a plan to "improve" Amsterdam with highways. They called the plan "Give The City A Chance," and they even started implementing it, but the residents were furious so they fought back hard and managed to save their city. Some American cities managed to stop the highways as well, most notably San Francisco (think about how walkable San Francisco is compared to Los Angeles), but the highway planners mostly won, and they destroyed our cities in the process.

So why don't many cities make any changes that reduce car-dependency and low-density development? This won't be popular to say, but the truth is that the biggest hindrance to doing so is suburbanites. Any time you try to make any changes to increase density or reduce car dependency, a bunch of suburbanites will show up at the next planning meeting furious about bunch of problems that they made-up. We're seeing this play-out right now in Atlanta and London (yes, European cities are dealing with many of these problems as well).

In Atlanta, the city is trying to solve the housing shortage by upzoning to allow more housing, and suburbanites are PISSED. You can find the comments about it online, and a bunch of them are worried about developers building skyscrapers in their suburban neighborhoods. The problem is that America's stupid zoning laws create only two types of housing in most areas: single-family housing and high-rise apartment buildings. Many people have no concept that missing middle housing could exist because they've basically never seen it. So when you suggest upzoning, they immediately assume you mean the only other kind of housing they've seen, high-rise apartment buildings, even if the upzoning would not actually allow them. There are also people mad about two contradictory things: 1) The city wants to allow dense, mixed-use development within a 1/2 mile of every metro station, and 2) The city is increasing population without also improving transportation infrastructure. They don't realize that increasing density around metro stations to increase ridership is the method the city is trying to use to improve transportation infrastructure, because most of them live far from a station, and it's easy to drive downtown and find parking, so they've literally never taken the metro and would never consider it as an option. London is dealing with a similar issue. The city wants to tear up some parking lots near suburban rail stations to build dense, mixed-use development there, and a bunch of people are angry that they won't be able to park at the stations, because they don't understand that the entire point is to allow people to live close enough to the stations that they won't have to drive there.

There are so many problems with the low-density, car-dependent development that American cities have prioritized for the past century, and I didn't even mention most of them here because this post is already absurdly long and I didn’t want to make it even longer. I completely skipped over the way it increases poverty by decreasing access to jobs, makes cities louder by increasing the amount of driving, was created by white racists and a tool of segregation, destroys an enormous amount of farmland and forests by taking up significantly more space per person, creates a situation where suburban living is less environmentally friendly than both urban and rural living because suburban living requires the most driving, creates roads that attempt to be good at both moving cars quickly and helping businesses along it even though those are competing goals, bankrupts cities through high infrastructure requirements and small tax bases, transfers money from poor urban neighborhoods to wealthy suburban neighborhoods through taxes, harms small businesses by increasing their costs, and makes us less healthy by reducing walkability. But all of these problems, and the ones I mentioned earlier, are perfectly solvable. We just have to build our cities for people who live in all types of housing and use all methods of transportation, not just those who live in single-family homes and drive everywhere.

Rant over. And if anyone would like a source for any of my claims, please ask and I will happily provide one.

 

November 27, 2017

Alex's Official Unofficial Guide to Hiking in New Zealand

New Zealand has developed its own vocabulary with regards to hiking, likely due to it's geographic isolation, especially amongst English-speaking countries with similar cultures. For example, what we call hiking, they call walking, and what we call a trail, they call a track. Walking in New Zealand is pretty similar to hiking in the US. The tracks are well-maintained, the mountains have switchbacks, and the grade is usually under 5-10%. But New Zealand has another type of hiking, one that honestly cannot reasonably even be called hiking at all. It's called tramping, and it's...different.

Tramping tracks almost never have switchbacks; they just go straight up the side of the mountain. While walking tracks are usually under 5-10% grade, tramping tracks go to 100% grade, and even up to 200% in some areas...or more. No, there's no typo in that last sentence; tramping tracks that go up mountains tend to have large parts that are 45°, with sections that are 60° or even steeper. Sometimes a tramping track will follow a river for a while, and the river will slowly erode its banks until the track literally disappears, and you have to make your own track through the grass if you're lucky, or bushwhack through the dense forest if you're not so lucky. Sometimes there will be no official track for a little while, and you simply follow the river until the official track picks up again. Sometimes the river floods its banks after a rainstorm, and you have to either bushwhack around it (a bad idea) or wade through the knee-deep (or deeper) water for a while (a slightly less bad idea). The stream and river crossings are usually unbridged, so much of your tramping is done with wet feet, and you usually put on cold, wet socks in the morning. Hiking poles are more-or-less necessary for the river crossings. When a crossing is bridged, sometimes, though not often, it's with a three-wire bridge. Right now you're imagining what I mean by that in your head, and you're thinking "no, that can't possibly be what he means, right? He must mean something else." Wrong, that's exactly what I mean. It's one wire for you to walk on, two more for you to hold on to, and a couple Vs made with steel bars bolted to the wires to give it a little more stability. They aren't common, but they do exist, and they were apparently put in to replace two-wire bridges, which I never came across.

Tramping is something you have to learn to love. It's like food that's an acquired taste. When you first try it, you're like "why would anyone ever want to do this?," but as you get used to it, you really start to enjoy it. And it's a great way to see amazing things without tons of other people around. Don't get me wrong, the Great Walks are, well, pretty great, but those things are multi-lane highways where you're constantly passing people. One of the great things about tramping is that you can go to the top of a mountain and be the only one there, without even passing anyone on the entire way up or down.

The weather is...well, it snowed on me in February. Take that for what you will.

And then there's the sandflies. Sandflies are basically the worst thing ever. They're these tiny flies, just a little bigger than gnats, that swarm you whenever you stop moving for a few minutes. And by "swarm," I mean there could literally be hundreds of them flying around you. They're actually part of the reason that I preferred tracks that are at higher altitudes, because they don't live above tree line. They don't just swarm you, they land on you and bite you. And their bites hurt. A lot. Seriously, they're incredibly painful, and afterwards they itch for about a week. But the good news is that bug sprays also barely work on them. If you use stuff called "Goodbye Sandfly," which is specifically made for them, they'll still land on you, but they won't bite you. And it doesn't stop them from swarming you. If you use bug spray with picaridin, they're like "oh please, I eat that stuff for breakfast," and it does literally nothing at all. The only stuff that kinda-sorta works is bug spray with DEET. DEET is horrible and will probably give you cancer, but honestly, I think I'd rather have cancer than sandflies.

I typically used both Goodbye Sandfly and a bug spray with DEET, that way most of them wouldn't swarm me, and most of the ones that landed on me wouldn't bite. But it wasn't a perfect option because there is no perfect option. Thankfully they don't do well with bad weather, so when it's cold, raining, night, and/or you're above tree line, they go away. And they can't fly anywhere near as fast as you can walk, so they're only around when you take a break. New Zealand also has a system of nearly a thousand backcountry huts that you can use, where you'll be protected from the sandflies, and most of them are included if you buy a hut pass, which for foreigners costs about US$65 for six months.

Hitchhiking is easy and safe, so besides taking a bus to get out of Auckland, and taking buses to get to the edge of other cities, there's no reason to pay for transportation. I had a big sign that said “I HAVE CHOCOLATE” which cut my wait time by at least a third. It's also good to google some hand signals that drivers use for hitchhikers. Restaurants are very expensive, so I bought the vast majority of my food at supermarkets and cooked it myself. Hostels usually need to be booked a few days in advance, so before I started each trek, I always booked a hostel to stay in afterwards. Hostels in Queenstown, the main tourist hub of South Island, need to be booked about two months in advance during the summer. No, that is not a joke. Queenstown is growing rapidly and gets far more tourists than it currently has the infrastructure for. It's a massive pain in the ass and really messes you up logistically. Most towns also have a campground of some sort, which you never have to book ahead of time. But in Queenstown the campground costs more to pitch a tent at than it costs to stay in a hostel.

Now on to the hikes. The order here is not the order that I did them in, nor is it a logical order to do them in based on the topography, locations of cities and towns, and road layout. The order is simply north to south. The number of days listed is how long it took me to hike them, and descriptions of difficulty are how difficult I personally found them. Your mileage may vary.



North Island


Cape Reinga Coastal Walkway/Ninety Mile Beach – 3 days

This is the first section of Te Araroa (also known as “The TA”), a 3000 km path from the northernmost point on North Island to the Southernmost point on South Island. My original plan was to hike all of it. I failed. I would not recommend doing this section. It's mostly hiking on a beach, and the sun is brutal.


Herekino Forest Track/Raetea Forest Track – 2 days

This is the second section of the TA. I called it quits after the Raetea Forest Track. It was partially because it was the first hard tramping that I ever did, and I wasn't at all used to it. It's possible that if I had been used to it, I would have continued on. I'm not really sure. But later one, whenever I met somebody who had done all of the TA, or who was nearing it's completion, and I told them that I called it quits after the Raetea Forest Track, everybody always had the same response: “Oh. Fair enough.” Some of you may recall my Facebook post from after I quit. That section was awful.


Tongariro Northern Circuit – 2 days

An easy Great Walk. Tongariro National Park is literally Mordor. Highly recommended.


Tongariro Alpine Crossing – 1 day

The best day hike in the country, according to literally everyone. It goes by Mount Ngauruhoe, aka Mount Doom, which you can climb. Make sure you get an early start if you plan to climb it. Highly recommended.



South Island


Anatoki and Historic Kill Devil Pack Tracks – 2 days

A difficult hike with views that aren't particularly spectacular. I would skip it.


Abel Tasman Coast Track – 4 days

An easy Great Walk with good views and a decent amount of beach hiking. I would recommend it if you like beaches.


Heaphy Track – 4 days

A moderately difficult Great Walk with some pretty good views. Do the side-hike up Mount Perry if you have time. It's more difficult but definitely worth it. I would recommend it.


Queen Charlotte Track – 3 days

A fairly easy hike with some great views. I would recommend it.


St James Walkway – 4 days

One of the best hikes I did, with some fantastic views. It has some overlap with the TA. Highly recommended.


Harper Pass Track – 4 days

A TA section that's one of the harder hikes I did, largely because it included a decent amount of bushwhacking and several very difficult river crossings. But the views are fantastic. I would recommend it.


Avalanche Peak – 1 day

A difficult, fantastic peak near Arthur's Pass village. Arthur's Pass is both the name of a village, and one of only three roads that go over the middle part of South Island. Highly recommended.


Te Ara Pataka Summit Walkway – 3 days

An easy hike on the Banks Peninsula near Christchurch. It's not particularly spectacular, but it's a good hike. I would recommend it if you have time.


Mount Somers Track – 3 days

An easy hike. It's not particularly spectacular, but it's a good hike. I would recommend it if you have time.


Robert's Point – 1 day

An easy hike to a great viewpoint near Franz Josef Glacier. I would recommend it.


Alex Knob – 1 day

Apparently Alex Knob has a really good view when it isn't cloudy. I cannot vouch for this personally. The hike is easy. I would recommend it.


Upper Copland Valley Track – 3 days

An easy hike to Welcome Flat Hut. The hike to Douglas Rock Hut is more difficult, but definitely worth it. The view about a half mile past Douglas Rock Hut is amazing. Highly recommended.


French Ridge Hut/Liverpool Hut/Rob Roy Glacier – 3 days

A set of very difficult hikes in Mount Aspiring National Park. The trails up to French Ridge Hut and Liverpool hut, which are on opposite sides of a deep valley, are very steep. You will need to use your hands, and it will take you longer to go do down than it did to go up. The views are amazing. Highly recommended.


Mueller Hut – 1 day

A steep but easy, popular hike near Aoraki/Mount Cook, the tallest mountain in the country. The views are amazing. Highly recommended.


Brewster Hut/Mount Armstrong – 2 days

A moderately difficult hike with some great views. The route up Mount Armstrong beyond Brewster Hut is unmarked. Highly recommended.


Gillespie Pass Circuit – 4 days

A very difficult hike with some great views. There is an option to fly back from one of the huts. I would take this option. It's surprisingly cheap and the flight is beautiful. Highly recommended.


Roy's Peak – 1 day

An easy, very popular mountain. The view is amazing, but there will be many people there. Highly recommended.


Glendhu Bay Track/Motatapu Track/Queenstown Trail – 5 days

A section of the TA which connects Wanaka to Queenstown. The Glendhu Bay Track connects Wanaka to the beginning of the Motatapu Track, and the Queenstown Trail connects the end of it to Queenstown. The Motatapu Track is the important part; the other two are just connectors, and it is possible to hitch-hike if you don't want to do them. The Motatapu Track is mostly above tree line, and is absolutely amazing, but it is also very steep. It's 2-3 days where most of the hiking is spent going up or down at a 45° angle. Highly recommended.


Hollyford Track – 6 days

Most people hike the Hollyford Track in one direction and then fly back from the end. I chose to take the cheap route, and hiked it out-and-back instead. It's moderately difficult, and has decent views, but nothing particularly spectacular. I would skip it if you're crunched for time.


Earnslaw Burn Track – 2 days

A fantastic out-and-back hike. The place I chose to camp was the best camping spot I've ever had. Highly recommended.


Rees–Dart Track/Cascade Saddle – 5 days

A moderately difficult hike, and the best hike I did in New Zealand. The side-hike to Cascade Saddle on day three is particularly amazing. The view from Cascade Saddle is my favorite view in the entire world. Highly recommended.


Gertrude Saddle Route – 1 day

A moderately difficult hike to a spot with a fantastic viewpoint. One of the best hikes I did. It becomes somewhat dangerous when wet, so don't go the day after it rains. Highly recommended.


Routeburn Track/Greenstone and Caples Track – 4 days

These two hikes can be done separately or can easily be combined into one. The Routeburn Track is a Great Walk, and the Greenstone and Caples Track has a Great Walk-quality trail. They both have amazing views. Highly recommended.


Ben Lomond – 1 day

An easy, very popular mountain near Queenstown. The view is amazing, but there will be many people there. Highly recommended.


Milford Track – 4 days

A decent Great Walk. Worth it if you want to pay for it, but personally, I don't think that the views justify the cost.


Hut Creek Track/U Pass/Mistake Creek Track – 2 days

Definitely the hardest hike that I've ever done. No matter which direction you go, the trail will end and you'll have to find your own path up to U Pass and down the other side, and then you'll have to find the trail when it starts again, which could be quite difficult. If you do it, go up Mistake Creek and down Hut Creek. You do not want to go down the waterfall section of Mistake Creek like I did. Highly recommended if you're okay with a little danger.


Kepler Track – 3 days

A moderately difficult, fantastic Great Walk. You spend several hours above tree line in an amazing area. Highly recommended.


So, I think that all of this begs the question: “Alex, if I go to New Zealand, what should I do?” Here's what I would recommend:
Fly into Auckland, then get the fuck out of Auckland. Seriously, do not spend any time there. Take a bus out of Auckland, but after that, never pay for a bus again. Always hitchhike. Head to Tongariro National Park and do the Tongariro Northern Circuit and the Tongariro Alpine Crossing with a side-hike up Mount Ngauruhoe. Then go to Wellington and take the ferry to South Island.

On South Island, do these hikes in this order:
Abel Tasman Coast Track
Heaphy Track
St James Walkway
Robert's Point
Alex Knob
Upper Copland Valley Track
Brewster Hut/Mount Armstrong
Roy's Peak
Ben Lomond
Routeburn Track/Greenstone and Caples track
Kepler Track

Those hikes take you northwest from the port on South Island, then down the west coast, across the mountains at Haast Pass, then down to the southernmost part of the island. They would also give you a good idea of what tramping is like, without doing anything too hard.

Then you should hike the South Island section of Te Araroa, going south-to-north, climbing Avalanche Peak when you get to Arthur's Pass. You should hike it south-to-north because, from what I've heard, the southernmost 2ish weeks on South Island are not particularly exciting, so you should get it out of the way first. Then hike all the way up to the north end of the island. After that do these hikes in this order:
Three Passes Route (I didn't do it, but I've heard that it's fantastic)
Mueller Hut
Gillespie Pass Circuit
Rabbit Pass (I didn't do it, but I've heard that it's fantastic. Make sure you Google “waterfall face rabbit pass” first, and if you're not 100% sure that you'll be comfortable with that, don't go.)
French Ridge Hut/Liverpool Hut/Rob Roy Glacier
Earnslaw Burn Track
Rees-Dart Track/Cascade Saddle
Hut Creek Track/U Pass/Mistake Creek Track
Gertrude Saddle Route

Those hikes take you down the eastern side of the mountains, and are the best hikes that should be saved for last.

October 16, 2016

Bus Transportation

Inter-departmental bus transportation in Nicaragua is not that different from long-distance bus transportation in the US; there is a set bus schedule, and buses are usually fairly on time. The main differences are 1) in the US you typically buy a ticket days or weeks in advance, but in Nicaragua you pay for the ticket once you’re already on the bus and it has left the terminal, or at the bus terminal just before boarding, and 2) in Nicaragua if there aren’t enough seats for everyone, some people just stand. There are large buses which are broken into two categories: expreso buses, which will drop people off anywhere along the route but will only pick people up at designated bus stops, and ruteado buses, which will pick people up and drop them off anywhere along the route. There are also smaller buses, which are about the size of 16-passenger vans, and are called microbuses. Microbuses generally fill up entirely at their departure city, and go all the way to their destination city with very few stops. You can get off anywhere along the route, but people generally don't. The ruteado buses generally cost about $0.75-1.00/hour, the expreso buses generally cost about $1.00-1.25/hour, and the microbuses generally cost about $1.25-1.50/hour.

Intra-departmental bus transportation, however, is very different from short-distance bus transportation in the US, mostly in the fact that it actually exists. It seriously blows my mind that there is, to the best of my knowledge, only one bus that goes between Jefferson and Frederick every day. One trip to Frederick in the morning, and one trip back to Jefferson in the evening; if that doesn’t fit your schedule, you have to have a car. We’ve actively designed a system where it’s nearly impossible to live in the US, outside of a handful of densely-populated cities, without owning a car. In Nicaragua, you could easily live without one (I've been doing that for over two years). To get from my small training town to one of the nearby cities, I either walked all the way (it was only about 30 minutes to each of them from my house), or I started walking down the road to one of them, and held my hand out when I saw a bus going in the same direction; there was almost always a bus within about five minutes. To get to the nearby city now, I usually bike, because money.

The large buses are called chicken buses in English. Chicken buses are former school buses from the US that I assume became cost-prohibitive to fix after not passing an emissions test or after breaking down too many times. And this isn’t just conjecture, I occasionally see chicken buses that still have their old US school district or county written on the side of them. They’re usually (though not always) painted rather flamboyantly, and some also have extra unnecessary lights on the outside for no apparent reason. I seriously wish school buses in the US could be decked out this fantastically. Sometimes they even have flat-screen TVs which play movies or music videos (at full volume, of course). You can also get on and off the buses from the door at the front or the one at the back, which is convenient. Also, they're never really "full", per se. Seriously, it’s rare for a ruteado bus to pass you by because it's completely full. There have been times when I’ve been on a bus that I thought must be completely full, but then it pulls over to pick up more people, and somehow more room just magically appears. In physics, it's a law that no two objects can occupy the same space at the same time, but Nicaraguans regularly try to prove that wrong.

Oh yeah, and one more thing, bus drivers all drivers here are batshit insane. They frequently get within a couple inches of other vehicles, even motorcycles, while driving. They use both sides of curvy roads when nobody’s coming the other direction, and sometimes even when other vehicles are coming. Sometimes I’ll think that the road I’m on only has two lanes, but then a driver just decides that this section of the road now has three lanes. For a while, I actively tried to not sit near the front of buses, because I really didn’t want to be able to see out of the front window, but now I’ve honestly gotten used to it. They also don’t always come to a complete stop to let me on and off. That’s not a joke, by the way, I’ve seriously had to get on and off buses while they were still moving. It’s not frequent, but it happens. It’s quite fun.

February 17, 2016

Alex's Official Unofficial Guide to Climbing the Volcanoes of Nicaragua

I've climbed 13 of Nicaragua's 19 volcanoes, and it was very difficult to find info on how to climb some of them, so I decided to make this guide for anyone else who wants to. First, a note on guides. There are some volcanoes that I would recommend you climb with a guide. There are some groups that you can go with, like QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI, that will provide well-trained guides, but these always cost more than Nica guides. The problem with Nica guides is that they usually have little-to-no training on how to be a guide. There is no guarantee that they'll be able to help with medical issues, speak English, or know that they can't get very far ahead of you. This doesn't mean that you shouldn't hire them, but you should be aware of this up front. Also that last point is very important; any time you hire a guide you need to make it clear that he shouldn't get more that 20(ish) meters ahead of you. The best time to climb volcanoes is in summer, but it's certainly not necessary. This list of volcanoes is the list according to a 3D topographical map at the visitor's center at Volcán Masaya, and the order is south-to-north.

1. Volcán Maderas
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to San Jorge, or to Rivas followed by a taxi to San Jorge. Go all the way to the port. Then take a ferry to Ometepe and a very slow bus or a very expensive taxi to either Santa Cruz or Balgüe. Ask the people at your hostel how to find the trail up the volcano. You don't need a guide, but if you want one your hostel can probably arrange one for you.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


2. Volcán Concepción
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to San Jorge, or to Rivas followed by a taxi to San Jorge. Go all the way to the port. Then take a ferry to Ometepe and a very slow bus to Altagracia. Call a guide named Wilmore at 8739-0825 a few days beforehand. He'll be able to help you out.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you? Actually I've heard that the view is beautiful if it isn't cloudy. Whether or not it's cloudy is sheer random chance.


3. Volcán Zapatera
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to Granada and a taxi to the port. Ask when boats go to Zapatera. There are two eco-lodges on the island so there definitely are boats that go there, and they may also be able to help you with climbing the volcano there.

Why you should climb it:
Because you have tons of money and don't know how to spend it all.


4. Volcán Mombacho
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to Nandaime or Rivas, or to Granada and then to Nandaime or Rivas. Either way ask the cobrador let you off at Mombacho. You'll have to pay US$4 to enter. The road goes all the way to the top and is the only way up.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


5. Laguna de Apoyo
How to climb it:
Ok, you don't really “climb” Laguna de Apoyo, per se, but going to the rim kinda-sorta counts. Take a bus from Huembes to Nandaime or Rivas and get off at Catarina, or from Masaya to Catarina. Ask people how to get to the mirador. Go where they tell you to go. You'll have to pay C$50 to enter.

Why you should climb it:
Seriously? You don't know why you should go to the Laguna de Apoyo mirador?


6. Volcán Masaya
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Huembes to Masaya and ask the cobrador to let you off at Volcán Masaya. You'll have to pay C$30 to enter. The road goes all the way to the top and is the only way up. There is very little tree cover. Use plenty of sunscreen.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


7. Volcán Apoyeque
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Nagarote or La Paz Centro, or from UCA to León, and ask the cobrador to let you off at Ciudad Sandino. From there take a bus to Xiloá, and ask the cobrador to let you off at the escuela. Go to the entrance of the military school and ask if you can pass through it to climb the volcano. If they let you in, pass through, if not, hop the fence and sneak across the school on your way to the top.

Why you should climb it:
Because you've always wanted to see what the inside of a Nicaraguan prison looks like.


8. Volcán Momotombito
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Nagarote, asking the cobrador to let you off at Meatre, from Israel to La Paz Centro, or from UCA to León asking the cobrador to let you off at either place. If you go to La Paz Centro you'll also have to take a cab to Puerto Momotombo. From Meatre or Puerto Momotombo ask a fisherman to take you to Momotombito, and make sure you give him a time to return to the same spot to pick you up and make sure you get his phone number and that he has yours. Once you're on the island, bushwhack your way to the top.

Why you should climb it:
It might have a good view of Momotombo. I'm not sure.


9. Volcán Momotombo
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to La Paz Centro, or from UCA to León asking the cobrador to let you off at La Paz Centro. Then take a taxi to the geothermal plant, and make sure you get the phone number of the taxi driver to call him later. Ask to pass through the geothermal plant, and from there you're on your own, as I have not climbed Momotombo.

Why you should climb it:
I have heard that the view from the top is spectacular.


10. Volcán El Hoyo
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then go with QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


11. Volcán Las Pilas
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then go up El Hoyo with QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI and ask if you can go up Las Pilas as well. The only practical way to get to the base is with an organized group, and I wouldn't want to explore the trails on the El Hoyo-Las Pilas volcanic complex without a guide.

Why you should climb it:
Because the view is probably pretty good.


12. Volcán Cerro Negro
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then go with QuetzalTrekkers; they're cheaper than everyone else because you get a $5 discount for being a volunteer in Nicaragua and you get to go down twice if you want to.

Why you should climb it:
...seriously?


13. Volcán Rota
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then take a bus to San Isidro and ask the cobrador to let you off at San Jacinto. Then bushwhack your way to the top.

Why you should climb it:
You shouldn't.


14. Volcán Santa Clara
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then take a bus to San Isidro and ask the cobrador to let you off at San Jacinto. Then bushwhack your way up to the top. When you get there, contemplate your own existence and what could possibly have led you to climb this horrible volcano. Seriously, do not climb it. I cannot be held responsible for your loss of sanity if you climb this volcano. It is terrible in every possible way.

Why you should climb it:
Because you enjoy pain and misery.


15. Volcán Telica
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León. Then either take a cab to Volcán Telica, asking the cab driver for his phone number so he can pick you up later, or take a bus to San Isidro and ask the cobrador to let you off at Volcán Telica. Either way, you should get off/out at a bridge called La Quimera. Please note that there is also a town near León that's called Telica, and that you shouldn't go there first because it's basically impossible to find a cab from there to Volcán Telica. Once you get out of the cab/off the bus, start hiking up the streambed, which eventually turns into a trail. Every time the trail splits it will look like you should go left. Don't. Always go right. Always. Trust me. I know it doesn't make any sense, but trust me, always go right. Actually, if you see anyone else along the trail, ask them which way to go, and if it runs contrary to what I said, then ignore what I said and go where they told you to go. But if that doesn't happen, always go right. Eventually you'll arrive at the base of the volcano by a large tree that provides lots of shade, and from there the trail doesn't split any more. That being said, there is a high chance that you will still get lost, and I would not recommend going unless you're with someone else who's climbed it before. Take a ton of water. Fill up as much as you think you will need and then double it. No, I'm not joking. You can also go on a daytime trek, an overnight trek, or a sunset trek with QuetzalTrekkers or SONATI.

Why you should climb it:

If this is not enough of a reason for you, you can also sometimes see the lava inside the volcano at night.


16. Volcán Casita
How to climb it:
Take a bus from UCA to León, and another one from León to Chinandega, asking the cobrador to let you off at Volcán Casita. From there it's a long hike to the base, so make sure you ask everyone you meet how to get there to make sure you're going the right way. You will probably make some wrong turns anyway and will have to backtrack a few times. From the base there's a road up it to the radio towers on top.

Why you should climb it:
Honestly, you shouldn't. You should climb San Cristóbal instead. It's harder, but it's also way better.


17. Volcán San Cristóbal
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Chinandega, and then a taxi from Chinandega to La Bolsa, and make sure to get the driver's phone number so you can call him to pick you up later. From there hike along the road for ~2 hours to La Hacienda. If you have camping gear I'd recommend you camp here and start the main hike the next morning at 6 am, but if not you can also leave Chinandega to 4 am. Call a guide named Candido Tijerino at 8467-3809 or 8283-5591 a few days beforehand. Take a ton of water. Fill up as much as you think you will need and then double it. No, I'm not joking.

Why you should climb it:

Is this enough of a reason for you?


18. Volcán El Chonco
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Chinandega, and another from Chinandega to Somotillo, asking the cobrador to let you off at Volcán El Chonco. Ask everyone you meet how to get there to make sure you're going the right way. You will probably make some wrong turns anyway and have to backtrack a few times. From the base the trail up follows a dry streambed and involves some semi-technical climbing.
Why you should climb it:
There's a fantastic view of San Cristóbal from the top, that I unfortunately do not have a picture of, but honestly the route up is just as difficult as the one up San Cristóbal, so you should just climb that one instead.


19. Volcán Cosigüina
How to climb it:
Take a bus from Israel to Chinandega, a cab to the mercadito, and a bus to Potosí. You can stay at Hotel Brisas del Gulfo or you can camp near the top. You can choose to go with a guide that Brisas del Gulfo can arrange, but you honestly don't need to. Just ask them how to get to the base and from there it's very easy. You should ask everyone you meet to make sure you're going the right way, but you probably won't make any wrong turns.

Why you should climb it:

This view is my absolute favorite in all of Nicaragua.


Which volcano(es) should I climb?:
I would definitely not recommend climbing Zapatera, Apoyeque, Momotombito, Las Pilas, Rota, Santa Clara, Casita, or El Chonco because they're expensive, pointless, or require bushwacking or breaking the law. Here are my categories for the ones that I would recommend:

The “I want something very easy” volcanoes:
Maderas
Mombacho
Laguna de Apoyo
Masaya
Cerro Negro
Cosigüina

The “I want something easy but not too easy” volcanoes:
El Hoyo
Telica

The “I am in fantastic shape” volcanoes:
Concepción
Momotombo
San Cristóbal

August 13, 2015

6 things you didn't know about Nicaragua, and 1 thing you don't know enough about

There are people who could write entire books on things you don't know about Nicaragua, in fact several people have, but I'm going to try to keep this (relatively) compact and mostly limited to things you probably won't find when researching the country.

1. Most of the country has running water, but in many places it only comes on at night, which means that a lot of it is wasted
Wait, why does that mean a lot of it is wasted? My host family has a large basin with a faucet over it. During the rainy season, when the water works, they open the valve at night, and in the morning the basin is full. The water usually comes on at 10(ish) and turns off at 4(ish). Of course the basin never gets full right when the water turns off, so it usually overflows for a while while everyone sleeps, and there's no good way for my family to solve this problem. What are they supposed to do? Have someone wait awake every night until the basin is full? Have a different person get up every hour to check the water level? They're not going to do that, and I don't blame them, so the basin just overflows.
During the dry season this wasn't a problem for my family...because we just didn't have any water. At first the water was on for just barely long enough every night to provide enough water for the following day, but then that stopped. Then we got water from the well down the street, but then that became dirty. Then a truck with a large tank on it started coming every day to fill up all of our buckets with water, but then it started only coming about twice per week, with no set schedule or pattern. Without a schedule there was no way to know how to ration water until the next delivery, and sometimes we still had plenty of water left, and sometimes we had been out of water for days.
The truly sad thing about my town is that not all of the town has this problem. My town doesn't have just one water system, it has several, and some are far better than others. Some neighborhoods get their water from one of the nearby towns or the nearby city, so much of my town almost always has running water 24/7, just not my neighborhood. The problem is really that the system is set up very poorly, and a lot of people suffer because of that.

2. Drivers honk, a lot
In the US, honking your horn pretty much means only one thing: “Get out of my way!” It's also occasionally used to say “hi” to a friend, but that's pretty rare. In Nicaragua it can mean pretty much anything. Sometimes it means “Get out of my way!” or “hi”, but it's also used by taxi drivers to alert people waiting on the side of the road that they have space. The worst use is as a way of alerting someone that you're coming. I find this use incredibly annoying because it means that some people don't look for oncoming cars before turning onto a road. Seriously, I have seen people make a right-hand turn onto a road without even looking left first, because they assume that if someone is coming, they'll honk. They figure out where other cars are by their listening for their horns instead of by looking (to be clear, the vast majority of people look, but not everyone does).
This is especially annoying for cyclists, because we don't have horns, so sometimes people pull out in front of us because they have no idea that we're coming and we have no way to alerting them of our presence. A lot of drivers also seem to think that cyclists don't even have any right to be on the road, or at least that we need to always give them right-of-way, no matter what. If I'm biking on the shoulder of a road, and there's a car parked on the shoulder, I look behind me to make sure nobody is going to hit me, then I pull into the road to go around the parked car. Sometimes a car that is a good 50 feet behind me will honk when I do this, and I cannot for the life of me figure out why. The only possible reason I can think of is that the driver thinks I randomly pulled into the road for no reason and I don't plan to go back into the shoulder, an explanation which is beyond ridiculous. Then there are some drivers that don't look for cyclists at all, and don't know we're coming because we don't have horns to honk, and who pull out in front of us because they have no idea that we're coming. Ok, that got off-topic a little, but the point is that driving and biking in Nicaragua is pretty dangerous. Thank god it's impossible to find a helmet anywhere in the entire country.

3. People don't exercise
Okay some people do, but the vast majority of people don't, kind of like in the US. The main difference between Nicaragua and the US when it comes to exercise is that Americans who don't exercise don't do so because they're lazy (I welcome your hate mail!), but Nicaraguans don't seem to even understand why anyone would want to do extra work like that. Some people just stare at me when they see me running, and I occasionally get asked why I run. When I tell people that I run for my health, I frequently get stares of confusion. I think that a lot of people here think it's just some weird chele thing to do.

4. People give out their phone numbers two digits at a time
If your phone number was 1234-5678, you would probably tell someone it was “one two three four, five six seven eight”, right? A Nicaraguan would instead say “twelve, thirty-four, fifty-six, seventy-eight”. But it's not always two digits at a time. Some people might say that number as “twelve, three, forty five, six, seventy-eight”. I have yet to figure out why some people seemingly randomly say single digits in their phone numbers.

5. There are supermarkets
There's a national chain called Palí which has stores in most cities. It's owned by Walmart, which is pretty disappointing, but it's better than nothing, and they're honestly pretty nice. Rivas even has a MaxiPalí that's air conditioned! There are also two chains in Managua, La Colonia and La Unión, which have a handful of locations elsewhere in the country, and which have more or less the selection of American supermarkets. They even have bagels! They're not very good bagels, but have you ever had a bad bagel? There's another place in Managua called PriceSmart, which I believe is owned by Costco, and which apparently has basically the same selection as a Costco in the US. I haven't been to it because you have to be a member to go in, but I know that they have Kirkland Signature products, and Kirkland Signature is owned by Costco.

6. There are rich people
Look at this mall:




Where do you think this is? Maybe Spain? Costa Rica? Panama? One of the touristy parts of Mexico? Wrong, it's in Nicaragua. Don't believe me? Google “Galerías Santo Domingo” and see for yourself. It is, to quote another volunteer, “the nicest mall I've ever been to.” Nicaragua also has Central America's only billionaire, Carlos Pellas, who owns several resort hotels in Nicaragua and Costa Rica, as well as some of the national Nicaraguan chains (yes, chains that are only in Nicaragua do, in fact, exist). 

7. Ronald Reagan really did sell weapons to Iran to fund a war against a democratically-elected government in Nicaragua
The government was not originally democratically-elected, the Sandinistas first took power by overthrowing Nicaragua's Somoza family dictatorship in 1979, but they won an election in 1984 which many international observers called “free and fair”, but Reagan insisted that the election must have been rigged, and he didn't stop funding the Contras. Congress passed a bill ordering him to stop. He ignored it. Several people in his administration were tried, convicted, and sent to prison for aiding him in his effort to ignore the law and overthrow Nicaragua's democratically-elected government. He still didn't stop. He sold weapons to a country that we officially called a “state sponsor of terrorism” and sent the money from the sale to the Contras to try to overthrow a democratically-elected government. Now he's a beloved president with lots of buildings named after him, and some people even want to put his face on Mount Rushmore. The war only ended after Reagan was out of office and the President of Costa Rica negotiated a peace treaty between the Sandinistas and the Contras, for which he won a Nobel Peace Prize. Shortly after the war ended, the Sandinistas held another election, which they lost. Reagan failed to remove the Sandinistas from power by funding a war that killed 30,000 Nicaraguans, but Nicaraguans successfully removed them from power without shedding any blood. No matter how much you know about Reagan's involvement in the Nicaraguan Revolution, you don't know enough.